WORDS / ELVA PANG
PHOTOGRAPHY / KIMIO NG
TRANSLATION / FANNY CHAN
⟨ 27 MAY 2024 ⟩
在堆著一疊又一疊牛仔褲的工作桌上，
Elton熟手地拆著褲袋上的鈕扣，說起他和牛仔褲的故事。
「少年時喜歡追逐潮流，嘗試改造自己的牛仔褲，
做破爛、潑墨、拼貼，穿上後自我感覺特別地良好。」
Elton笑說，在此之前他沒穿過牛仔褲，這大概是他與牛仔褲的緣起。
後來成立了牛仔品牌Full House Denim & Workshop十多年，
他由最初的度身訂造、改製、加工，
到生產整個牛仔系列，對於牛仔褲了解，就如正在拆鈕扣般純熟。
Elton由自己製作的牛仔褲，說到日本品牌45R今季的「牛仔祭」，
由製造到穿著、配搭的日常，看似平凡的牛仔褲，
背後記載著職人的用心、穿者的故事。即使平凡，
也可以是經歷時日流逝後，仍留在衣櫥中、讓人珍惜的衣物。
Elton was skillfully removing the buttons on the pockets of the stacks of jeans on his work desk as he shared his stories with denim. “When I was young, I liked to be on-trend. I would customize my jeans by distressing them, splattering paint on them, and adding patches. Wearing them made me feel really cool,” Elton laughed, explaining that before this, he had never even worn jeans. This was the start of his connection with denim. Years later, he founded the denim brand Full House Denim & Workshop, from where he progressed from custom tailoring, alterations, and processing, to eventually producing an entire line of jeans. His mastery of denim is evident as he deftly removes the pocket buttons. Elton went on to discuss the Japanese brand 45R and their recent “Denim Festival.” From the manufacturing process to how people wear and style the jeans in daily life, even the most ordinary pair of jeans can hold the craftsmanship of the artisans and the stories of the wearers. Though simple, these well-loved jeans that remain in our closets are treasures that have withstood the test of time.
The Beginning of Denim Chapter II
「作為牛仔愛好者，我一直有留意日本品牌45R，是因為它的藍染技術。
除了創造專屬品牌的藍色，
最令我深刻的是一個由淺藍至深藍的T恤系列，
印象中沒有人做過，是很創新的嘗試。」
正如45R社長高橋慎志說，
「日本牛仔布」的含義是藍染（Indigo），
也成為了品牌製作牛仔褲的DNA。
當線製成後，職人會使用「繩索染色」的技術，
把繩狀線浸入染料中並進行氧化，重覆多次後染成不同色調的靛藍。
經歷人們年月來的穿著，將成為穿者獨特的藍色。
“As a denim enthusiast, I have long admired 45R for their indigo dyeing techniques. Besides their own signature shades of blue, I am particularly impressed by their indigo t-shirt series that showcases varied blue tones. It’s something really innovative that I haven’t seen elsewhere.” As 45R’s president Takahashi Shinji explained, the essence of Japanese denim lies in the indigo dyeing process, which has become core to the brand’s jean-making. The artisans use a rope dyeing technique, repeatedly dipping the yarn into the dye and oxidizing it to achieve the varied indigo tones. Through years of wear, the jeans take on the unique blue tones of the wearer.
由品牌一直強調的根源（Roots）開始，45R今季重新審視了材料、染色技術和剪裁，並以充滿日本節慶色彩的「牛仔祭」為主題，推出5款版型、各有特色的牛仔褲，包括Charlottee 5、Crossover、Sorahikohime、Crosby 5和New Momohime，帶來充滿活力、喜悅的「Wasshoi, Wasshoi」能量。
Building on the brand’s emphasis on its roots, this season 45R re-examined their materials, dyeing techniques, and cuttings, presenting the “Denim Festival” collection infused with the vibrant energy of the Japanese festivities. The five styles: Charlotte 5, Crossover, Sorahikohime, Crosby 5, and New Momohime, capture the joyful spirit of “Wasshoi, Wassshoi” (a chant often heard during Japanese festivals).
Elton看一條牛仔褲時，
很自然地拿著一邊褲腳，反起內裡，
研究不常被人看見的細節。
「從製造者的角度來看，最重視的一定是布料，
因為不可能做一件很美但穿不到、
或洗一兩次就破爛變形的牛仔褲出來。
我習慣先看褲腳的內裡，看看布邊有沒有紅線，
有的話代表牛仔布是由舊式梭織機織出來的，
製作時間較長，裁剪上也會較消耗布量，價格自然會高一些。」
When Elton looks at jeans, it is natural for him to first study the hems to closely examine the lining and details that aren’t usually visible. “From the manufacturer’s perspective, the most important thing has to be the fabric, because it’s impossible to make a pair of jeans that look great but can’t be worn or falls apart after washing it a couple times.” He shared, “I’m used to first looking at the lining of the hem, checking if there’s a red line, which would indicate the denim was woven on an old-style shuttle loom. That takes more time to manufacture and uses more fabric, so the price is usually higher.”
『Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime空比古比女』，
因為對原色牛仔褲的喜愛，加上配襯度高，所以選擇了這款牛仔褲。」
結合品牌經典的Sorahiko空比古及Hikohimi比古比女的版型，
穿上去筆挺俐落之餘，股線比平常更為往上延伸，
有收緊臀部線條的效果，從而令雙腿顯得更修長。
「這款式是比較重磅的款式，看上去像很厚似的，
穿上去卻感到非常透氣，而且柔軟舒適。
雖然戶外拍攝時是中午時間，但我一點也不覺得熱。」
由製作布料開始，經歷許多嘗試、改進，
45R選擇了6.5支極粗的Zimba棉線製成標誌性的FUTATABI 6.5為面料，
擁有堅韌彈性的質地、乾燥的觸感，
十分適合製作牛仔褲。
“Today I’m wearing 45R’s new Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime straight-leg jeans. I chose this pair because I love raw denim, and the style goes well with what I usually wear.” The design blends 45R’s classic Sorahiko and Hikohime fits, resulting in a sharp, streamlined look with an elevated waistline that subtly accentuates the figure. “This is a heavier-weight style, but it feels incredibly breathable and soft when you put it on. Even in the noon sunlight during our outdoor shoot, I didn’t feel hot at all.” The fabric is 45R’s signature 6.5-ounce Futatabi 6.5 denim, made from tough yet flexible Zimba cotton, with a dry handfeel that’s perfect for jeans.
「Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime空比古比女」背牌的45五星烙印代表着昔日的五星級酒店，藉此寓意這版型為45R最經典和優質的牛仔褲。
The five-star logo on the back patch of the Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime denotes them as 45R’s most classic and high-quality jeans, mirroring the top-tier distinction of a five-star hotel.
The Spirit of Craftsmanship
「我不會很籠統地說，使用什麼布料、剪裁就是一條好的牛仔褲。一條好的牛仔褲，在於是否切合穿它的人的需要和要求。
例如你喜歡柔軟、有彈性的牛仔褲，
但別人給你一條重安士、硬淨的牛仔褲，
你會嫌棄它太厚重、穿上去不舒服。
所以你必須很清楚自己的要求，才能找到一條『好』的牛仔褲。」
以他自己為例，他近年喜歡較闊身的牛仔褲，
輪廓流暢簡約的「Crosby 5」正合他心意。
「現在比從前怕熱，人大了對舒適度的要求自然地高了。」
“I don’t believe that using any particular fabric or cut makes a pair of jeans ‘good.’ A good pair of jeans comes down to whether it meets the needs and requirements of the person wearing them. For example, if you like soft, stretchy jeans but someone gives you a heavy, stiff pair, you’ll find them too thick and uncomfortable to wear. So you have to be very clear about your own preferences to find a ‘good’ pair of jeans for yourself.” Using himself as an example, Elton said that he has grown to prefer more relaxed fit jeans in recent years. The Crosby 5 style with its streamlined, minimalist cutting is perfect for me. “I’m more sensitive to heat these days, so comfort has become an even higher priority.”
呼應45R 2024春夏系列的常春藤學院主題，「Crosby 5」靈感源自紐約歷史悠久的Crosby大街，重新演繹美式經典，變奏出介乎於傳統五袋牛仔褲和休閒長褲之間的版型，薄身柔軟、洗水款式更適合夏天穿著。
Complementing 45R’s Ivy League-inspired 2024 spring/summer collection, the Crosby 5 jeans are inspired by New York’s historic Crosby Street. This style reimagines the American classic five-pocket jean, blending it with elements of casual trousers to create a slimmer, softer washed style that is more suitable for summer wear.
可以看到製作者的心思。這方面，
日本的牛仔褲品牌便做得很出色，
大概是因為他們很專注每一個細節吧。
由原材料開始，如棉花種植、染色，
連縫線或五金的成分也會很講究，
好像45R的牛仔褲會以不同粗細、顏色的線作縫紉，
口袋、門襟、過肩、腰帶，達到『完美』的效果。
我認為日本造的牛仔褲通常感覺『復刻』一點，
即是回復牛仔褲『原始』的樣貌。」
“Beyond just the fabric, the smaller details like buttons and zippers are equally important, as they reflect the manufacturer’s thoughtfulness and craftsmanship. In this regard, Japanese denim brands excel, as they are exceptionally meticulous about every step of the production process—from the cotton growing, to the dyeing, stitching, and even the thread colors and metal hardware used. For 45, they utilize threads of varying thicknesses and colors across key areas like the pockets, fly, shoulders, and waistband to achieve a ‘perfect’ final result. I find that Japanese jeans often have a sense of being ‘restored’ to their original denim essence and heritage.”
腰頭的交叉設計很特別，鈕扣搭到接近褲袋位置，
造成不對稱和立體的感覺，印象中沒見過其他品牌做過，
加上前後長短不一的褲腳帶有磨損流蘇，是很特別的設計。
另一款『CHARLOTTE 5』的背牌改用了熨章，
也是讓人感到驚喜的細節。」
“Personally, I’m quite interested in the new Crossover style. The overlapping waistband design is very unique, with the buttons extending almost to the pocket area, creating an asymmetric, three-dimensional effect that I haven’t seen elsewhere. The style also features details like uneven, frayed hems which I find quite special. As for the Charlotte 5 style, it uses an embroidered logo patch instead of the typical leather, which is a pleasant design choice.”
45R推出新版型牛仔褲「CROSSOVER」，選用輕巧透薄的MUGI牛仔布，使成品蓬鬆柔軟。
45R introduced the new Crossover style that features lightweight, thin MUGI denim fabric, giving the final product a soft and fluffy feel.
以著名法國建築家及設計師Charlotte Perriand來命名的女裝牛仔褲「CHARLOTTE 5」，採用休閒的寬鬆、較女性化的剪裁，直筒及較為高腰的設計，營造出優美曲線，背牌則採用了印刷的嫦娥圖案以代表女裝版型。
Named after the renowned French architect and designer Charlotte Perriand, the women’s jeans Charlotte 5 have a relaxed, more feminine cut with a straight leg and higher waist, creating a beautiful and flattering silhouette. The back patch features a printed crescent moon design to represent the collection’s women’s styling.
除了「CHARLOTTE 5」的靈感來自女性，另一款式「NEW MOMOHIME 新版桃比女」的靈感則來自瑪莉蓮夢露，臀部較為闊身，同時亦是馬褲的改良版，使版型變為更女性化。款式參考了歐洲復古的工人牛仔褲的版型，拉鏈於側邊而後幅只有一個口袋。
Beyond the Charlotte 5, 45R has also introduced the New Momohime style, which is likewise inspired by feminine influences. Taking Marilyn Monroe as its muse, the New Momohime features a wider cut through the hips, giving it an updated palazzo pant silhouette with a more overtly feminine shape. The design also references vintage European workers’ jeans, with a side zipper closure and a single back pocket.
在背後口袋車上不同顏色的「R」刺繡，
以水平的「Sleeping R」表現輕鬆、自由感覺，
使用植物染料的繡線在藍染牛仔布上的細節，
更能體現職人細心嚴謹的精神和精湛工藝。
「牛仔褲的豐富多變是最吸引人的地方，
尋找一條適合自己的牛仔褲也許不容易，
但正是這原因，更值得我們去尋找，
說不定能成為長伴我們的牛仔褲呢。」
A key highlight of the Denim Chapter II collection is the varied leather patches, as well as the colorful “R” embroidery stitched horizontally on the back pockets. These design elements combine to give the collection an overall relaxed, free-spirited feel. The embroidery work utilizes plant-based dyes on the indigo denim, showcasing 45R’s thoughtful design and meticulous craftsmanship. “The wide variety and evolving nature of denim is what makes it so appealing. Finding the right pair of jeans for yourself may not be easy, but that’s what makes the search worthwhile. You might just find that perfect pair to be your loyal companion.”
