WORDS / ELVA PANG
PHOTOGRAPHY/ KIMIO NG
TRANSLATION / FANNY CHAN
⟨ 27 MAY 2024
On the work table piled with piles of jeans,
Elton deftly unbuttoned the pants pocket and told the story about him and jeans.
"When I was a teenager, I liked to follow trends and try to modify my jeans.
Make tatters, splash ink, and collage, and feel particularly good about yourself after wearing them. "
Elton laughed and said that he had never worn jeans before, which was probably the origin of his relationship with jeans.
Later, the denim brand Full House Denim & Workshop was established for more than ten years.
From the initial tailor-made, modified and processed,
When it comes to producing the entire denim series, he knows jeans as well as he does unbuttoning them.
Elton’s jeans are made by himself. Speaking of Japanese brand 45R’s “Denim Festival” this season,
From manufacturing to daily wear and matching, seemingly ordinary jeans,
The craftsman's intentions and the wearer's story are recorded on the back. Even if it is ordinary,
It can also be items that remain in the closet and are cherished even after time has passed.
Elton was skillfully removing the buttons on the pockets of the stacks of jeans on his work desk as he shared his stories with denim. “When I was young, I liked to be on-trend. I would customize my jeans by distressing them, splattering paint on them, and adding patches. Wearing them made me feel really cool," Elton laughed, explaining that before this, he had never even worn jeans. This was the start of his connection with denim. Years later, he founded the denim brand Full House Denim & Workshop , from where he progressed from custom tailoring, alterations, and processing, to eventually producing an entire line of jeans. His mastery of denim is evident as he deftly removes the pocket buttons. Elton went on to discuss the Japanese brand 45R and their recent “Denim Festival.” From the manufacturing process to how people wear and style the jeans in daily life, even the most ordinary pair of jeans can hold the craftsmanship of the artisans and the stories of the wearers. Though simple, these well-loved jeans that remain in our closets are treasures that have withstood the test of time.
The Beginning of Denim Chapter II
"As a denim lover, I have always paid attention to the Japanese brand 45R because of its indigo dyeing technology.
In addition to creating an exclusive brand of blue,
What impressed me the most was a series of T-shirts ranging from light blue to dark blue.
I have the impression that no one has done this before, and it is a very innovative attempt. "
As 45R President Shinshi Takahashi said,
"Japanese denim" means indigo.
It has also become the DNA of the brand's jeans.
After the thread is made, the craftsmen will use the "rope dyeing" technique.
The rope-like threads are dipped in dye and oxidized several times before being dyed into different shades of indigo.
As people wear it over the years, it will become a unique blue color for the wearer.
"As a denim enthusiast, I have long admired 45R for their indigo dyeing techniques. Besides their own signature shades of blue, I am particularly impressed by their indigo t-shirt series that showcases varied blue tones. It's something really innovative that I haven' t seen elsewhere." As 45R's president Takahashi Shinji explained, the essence of Japanese denim lies in the indigo dyeing process, which has become core to the brand's jean-making. The artisans use a rope dyeing technique, repeatedly dipping the yarn into the dye and oxidizing it to achieve the varied indigo tones. Through years of wear, the jeans take on the unique blue tones of the wearer.
Starting from Roots, which the brand has always emphasized, 45R has re-examined materials, dyeing techniques and tailoring this season. With the theme of "Denim Festival" full of Japanese festival colors, 45R has launched 5 styles of jeans with different characteristics, including Charlottee 5, Crossover, Sorahikohime, Crosby 5 and New Momohime bring the energetic and joyful "Wasshoi, Wasshoi" energy.
Building on the brand's emphasis on its roots, this season 45R re-examined their materials, dyeing techniques, and cuttings, presenting the “Denim Festival” collection infused with the vibrant energy of the Japanese festivities. The five styles: Charlotte 5, Crossover, Sorahikohime , Crosby 5, and New Momohime , capture the joyful spirit of “Wasshoi, Wassshoi” (a chant often heard during Japanese festivals).
When Elton looked at a pair of jeans,
Naturally, I took one leg of my trousers and turned it up inside.
Study the details that are not often seen.
“From a manufacturer’s point of view, the most important thing must be the fabric.
Because it is impossible to make a beautiful thing but not be able to wear it,
Or jeans that become torn and deformed after just one or two washes.
I'm used to looking at the inside of the trousers first to see if there are any red lines on the edges of the trousers.
If so, it means that the denim is woven on an old shuttle loom.
The production time is longer, and the cutting will consume more fabric, so the price will naturally be higher. "
When Elton looks at jeans, it is natural for him to first study the hems to closely examine the lining and details that aren't usually visible. "From the manufacturer's perspective, the most important thing has to be the fabric, because it's impossible to make a pair of jeans that look great but can't be worn or falls apart after washing it a couple times." He shared, "I'm used to first looking at the lining of the hem, checking if there's a red line, which would indicate the denim was woven on an old-style shuttle loom. That takes more time to manufacture and uses more fabric, so the price is usually higher."
Because I love original color jeans and they match well, I chose these jeans. "
Combining the brand’s classic Sorahiko and Hikohimi styles,
The dress is straight and neat when worn, and the strands extend upwards more than usual.
It has the effect of tightening the hip line, making the legs look longer.
"This style is a heavier style and looks very thick.
It feels very breathable, soft and comfortable when worn.
Even though it was noon when I was shooting outdoors, I didn’t feel hot at all. "
Starting from making fabrics, we have gone through many attempts and improvements.
45R chose 6.5 extremely thick Zimba cotton threads to make the iconic FUTATABI 6.5 fabric.
It has a tough and elastic texture and a dry touch.
Perfect for making jeans.
"Today I'm wearing 45R's new Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime straight-leg jeans. I chose this pair because I love raw denim, and the style goes well with what I usually wear." The design blends 45R's classic Sorahiko and Hikohime fits, resulting in a sharp, streamlined look with an elevated waistline that subtly accentuates the figure. “This is a heavier-weight style, but it feels incredibly breathable and soft when you put it on. Even in the noon sunlight during our outdoor shoot, I didn' t feel hot at all." The fabric is 45R's signature 6.5-ounce Futatabi 6.5 denim, made from tough yet flexible Zimba cotton, with a dry handfeel that's perfect for jeans.
The 45 five-star brand on the back of the "Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime Sorahikohime" brand represents the five-star hotel in the past, which means that this version is the most classic and high-quality 45R jeans.
The five-star logo on the back patch of the Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime denotes them as 45R's most classic and high-quality jeans, mirroring the top-tier distinction of a five-star hotel.
The Spirit of Craftsmanship
“I wouldn’t say in general terms that a good pair of jeans depends on the fabric and cut.A good pair of jeans depends on whether it meets the needs and requirements of the person wearing it.
For example, if you like soft and stretchy jeans,
But if someone gives you a pair of heavy-weight, stiff jeans,
You will find it too heavy and uncomfortable to wear.
So you have to know your requirements very well to find a "good" pair of jeans. "
Taking himself as an example, he prefers wider jeans in recent years.
The "Crosby 5" with its smooth and simple silhouette is exactly what he wants.
"We are more afraid of heat now than before. As we get older, our requirements for comfort are naturally higher."
"I don't believe that using any particular fabric or cut makes a pair of jeans 'good.' A good pair of jeans comes down to whether it meets the needs and requirements of the person wearing them. For example, if you like soft , stretchy jeans but someone gives you a heavy, stiff pair, you'll find them too thick and uncomfortable to wear. So you have to be very clear about your own preferences to find a 'good' pair of jeans for yourself." Using himself as an example, Elton said that he has grown to prefer more relaxed fit jeans in recent years. The Crosby 5 style with its streamlined, minimalist cutting is perfect for me. “I'm more sensitive to heat these days, so comfort has become an even higher priority.”
Echoing the Ivy League theme of the 45R 2024 spring and summer series, "Crosby 5" is inspired by New York's historic Crosby Street, reinterpreting American classics and creating a version between traditional five-pocket jeans and casual trousers. The thin, soft and washed style is more suitable for summer wear.
Complementing 45R's Ivy League-inspired 2024 spring/summer collection, the Crosby 5 jeans are inspired by New York's historic Crosby Street. This style reimagines the American classic five-pocket jean, blending it with elements of casual trousers to create a slimmer, softer washed style that is more suitable for summer wear.
You can see the creator's thoughts. In this regard,
Japanese jeans brands are doing very well.
Probably because they pay attention to every detail.
Starting from raw materials, such as cotton cultivation and dyeing,
Even the ingredients of stitching or hardware are very particular.
It seems that 45R jeans are sewn with threads of different thicknesses and colors.
Pockets, placket, yoke, and waistband achieve the "perfect" effect.
I think jeans made in Japan usually feel a bit more "replica".
That is to restore the "original" appearance of jeans. "
“Beyond just the fabric, the smaller details like buttons and zippers are equally important, as they reflect the manufacturer's thoughtfulness and craftsmanship. In this regard, Japanese denim brands excel, as they are exceptionally meticulous about every step of the production process—from the cotton growing, to the dyeing, stitching, and even the thread colors and metal hardware used. For 45, they utilize threads of varying thicknesses and colors across key areas like the pockets, fly, shoulders, and waistband to achieve a 'perfect' final result. I find that Japanese jeans often have a sense of being 'restored' to their original denim essence and heritage.”
The cross design of the waistband is very special, and the button is placed close to the trouser pocket.
It creates an asymmetrical and three-dimensional feeling, which I have never seen done by other brands.
In addition, the trousers of different lengths on the front and back have frayed tassels, which is a very special design.
Another "CHARLOTTE 5" has an iron stamp on the back.
It's also a surprising detail. "
"Personally, I'm quite interested in the new Crossover style. The overlapping waistband design is very unique, with the buttons extending almost to the pocket area, creating an asymmetric, three-dimensional effect that I haven't seen elsewhere. The style also features details like uneven, frayed hems which I find quite special. As for the Charlotte 5 style, it uses an embroidered logo patch instead of the typical leather, which is a pleasant design choice.”
45R launches a new version of jeans "CROSSOVER", which uses lightweight and thin MUGI denim to make the finished product fluffy and soft.
45R introduced the new Crossover style that features lightweight, thin MUGI denim fabric, giving the final product a soft and fluffy feel.
The women's jeans "CHARLOTTE 5", named after the famous French architect and designer Charlotte Perriand, adopt a casual, loose, more feminine cut, a straight leg and a relatively high-waisted design to create graceful curves, and the back label is printed The Chang'e pattern represents women's clothing styles.
Named after the renowned French architect and designer Charlotte Perriand, the women's jeans Charlotte 5 have a relaxed, more feminine cut with a straight leg and higher waist, creating a beautiful and flattering silhouette. The back patch features a printed crescent moon design to represent the collection's women's styling.
In addition to "CHARLOTTE 5" which is inspired by women, another style "NEW MOMOHIME New Peach Girl" is inspired by Marilyn Monroe. The hips are wider and it is also an improved version of jodhpurs, making the fit even better. Feminine. The style refers to the style of European retro workers' jeans, with zippers on the sides and only one pocket on the back.
Beyond the Charlotte 5, 45R has also introduced the New Momohime style, which is likewise inspired by feminine influences. Taking Marilyn Monroe as its muse, the New Momohime features a wider cut through the hips, giving it an updated palazzo pant silhouette with a more overtly feminine shape. The design also references vintage European workers' jeans, with a side zipper closure and a single back pocket.
"R" embroidery in different colors on the back pocket,
The horizontal "Sleeping R" expresses the feeling of relaxation and freedom,
Detail of using vegetable dye embroidery thread on blue-dyed denim,
It can better reflect the careful and rigorous spirit and exquisite craftsmanship of the craftsmen.
"The variety of jeans is the most attractive thing.
Finding a pair of jeans that suits you may not be easy.
But it is precisely this reason that is more worthy of our search,
Maybe they can become our jeans that will stay with us for a long time. "
A key highlight of the Denim Chapter II collection is the varied leather patches, as well as the colorful “R” embroidery stitched horizontally on the back pockets. These design elements combine to give the collection an overall relaxed, free-spirited feel. The embroidery work utilizes plant-based dyes on the indigo denim, showcasing 45R's thoughtful design and meticulous craftsmanship. "The wide variety and evolving nature of denim is what makes it so appealing. Finding the right pair of jeans for yourself may not be easy, but that's what makes the search worthwhile. You might just find that perfect pair to be your loyal companion.”
